Some cookbooks are meant for coffee tables. They are too heavy to lift, and too pretty to get dirty.

I prefer a cookbook that’s meant for the kitchen counter; soft cover, inspirational pictures, a book that just falls open when resting on its spine amid the chaos of the average countertop at dinner time.

Cook!, the new recipe collection by Dietitians of Canada, is just that sort of book. Written and edited by Mary Sue Waisman, a registered dietitian with both a master’s degree and a couple of decades of cooking for her family under her belt, Cook! includes 275 recipes contributed by great cooks and dietitians across Canada. The recipes reflect regional and seasonal choices that are geared toward good health, and good taste.

“It’s the ideal kitchen companion for families, that’s what I believe,” says Waisman, who has written two other cookbooks. “It’s a celebration of Canadian food for Canadian families.”

The book is part of a campaign advanced by Dietitians of Canada, the national, professional organization representing dietitians that is holding its annual general meeting in Edmonton this week, over the last couple of years.

The campaign emphasizes the value of Canadian-produced food, and promotes the link between the field and the fork. While Cook! is a collection of family-friendly recipes, it’s also a primer on one of the hottest food issues of the day -the importance of eating food grown as close to home as possible. After reading the opening chapter, you’ll be able to spout knowledgeably about everything from the challenges of the locavore life to the importance of reading labels. There is also a nutrient analysis for every recipe in the book.

“We have tried to educate people about Canadian food, and all the beautiful food we have available to us in Canada,” says Waisman.

Over the phone from her home in Fall River, N.S., Waisman said she hopes the book will encourage families to cook and eat together (there are good tips on getting the kids involved in the kitchen). That’s because eating together is one of life’s greatest pleasures, and also makes an important contribution to the physical and mental health of family members.

“There is good evidence that (says) when older kids eat with their families, they eat better and there is compelling evidence of the sociological benefits of eating together, too,” she says.

Waisman quotes a study by researchers at Columbia University that notes there is less risk of alcohol and drug abuse among young people whose families share meals.

“Just sitting around the table with the family has great benefits,” she says. “It’s a chance to have conversation and it keeps you grounded. It’s common sense, but who ever said sense was common?”

Of course, one way to get family members to the table is to create wonderful food for them to eat. In the end, it’s all about the recipes, and there is an impressive selection in Cook! Waisman tested every creation in the book and assessed each one from the perspective of health, ease of preparation, family focus and taste. You could actually close your eyes, open the book at any place and discover a pleasing choice, from barbecue tarragon mustard turkey, to golden beet salad, to carrot and almond cake. The challenge is only in deciding what to cook.

I have two copies of Cook! to give away to a Journal reader. Go to my blog, Eat My Words, at www. edmontonjournal.com/blogs for details on how to enter a draw.

Fruity Sautéed Chicken

This recipe is reprinted from Cook! by Dietitians of Canada, with permission of Robert Rose Inc. and was written by British Columbia’s Christine D. Lee.

Sprinkle chicken with a pinch each of salt and pepper. In a Dutch oven or large pot, heat 1 teaspoon (5 mL) oil over medium-high heat. Add half the chicken and cook, turning once, for 3 to 4 minutes per side or until lightly browned. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Add the remaining oil to the pot and brown the remaining chicken. Transfer to bowl.

Add orange juice and deglaze the pot, scraping up any brown bits. Return chicken and any accumulated juices to the pot. Stir in apples, pear, grapes, ginger (if using), cinnamon stick (if using), 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) salt and 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) pepper; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, cover and simmer for 15 minutes or until fruit is soft. Uncover and simmer for 5 minutes or until sauce is slightly thickened and juices run clear when chicken is pierced. Discard cinnamon stick and ginger. Serve garnished with parsley.

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